Barmouth Bridge now has an additional plaque commemorating the recent years of extensive restoration work. There were crystal clear views across the Mawddach sands towards the western hills.

From the A493 a footpath ascends southwards through lovely woodland, briefly joining the Wales Coast Path and leaving it to climb an old forestry track where a small broken sign warns of 'Forestry Operations'. A short way up we met the first of several fallen trees, very easy to pass through until the last couple approaching the byway: for one of them we were down with our stomachs flat on the ground and inching forward with our forearms, for the other we found that walkers had forged a thin line around the whole tangled mess. Just beyond this we reached the byway track via a gap in the fence (with another broken forestry operations sign).

We turned left on the track to reach a gate into Access Land where a thin path cuts off the field corner and ascends north-eastwards near the forestry fence to the summit of Braich Ddu. There were grand views over the Mawddach estuary to the southern Rhinogydd and the distant hazy outline of the Llyn Peninsula. Around the forest corner we found a good pitch spot with a view to the western line of hills ahead. The breeze was surprisingly chilly here and we soon had our fleeces on.

Continuing around the forest edge to the end of the trees on another glorious morning, a path cuts off the corner and heads directly to the edge of the crags of Craig-y-llyn, giving a good view along the ridge ahead with Llyn Cyri coming into view below the craggy drop. Near the top the path switches to the eastern side of the fence for the descent and subsequent climb to Tyrrau Mawr. The land rises a little on the westward side of the fence and a stile gives access to the last few metres to gain the true summit on the edge of the precipitous drop.

The westward view towards the estuary highlights Llynnau Cregennen and the small rugged hill group of Bryn Brith and Pared y Cefn hir, while the Pony Path ascending to the main eastern mountains is clearly seen ahead.

We descended to the major central Cadair path junction where we had expected to see many walkers on a day like this, but only one appeared.

The traversing path towards Llyn y Gadair, as confirmed by our GPS mapping, starts just a few metres down the Pony Path and is an easily missed thin grassy line, no more than a sheeptrod. We set off apprehensively along this obviously little used path but it slowly asserted itself and its course ran true to the mapped line, becoming quite clear until it approached a wire crossing fence in rough heathery terrain. There is no stile here and various faint lines could be discerned where walkers had tried different points to cross. We crossed after a laborious struggle and surveyed the scene.

Ahead is a sort of shallow hanging valley and we could see a clear line heading along its floor towards the distant rock field at the base of the corrie cliffs. After a bit more heathery toil the path improved considerably and appeared well walked, boosting confidence and affording a fine view upwards to the Cadair cliffs. So far so good and spirits were high but things turned sour as we reached the base of the dense boulder field: the path effectively disappeared and we searched for any sign of a way forward.

Finding mere traces of a walked line we set off into the rock field, a very slow and laborious effort with hints of previous attempts luring us on, even a tiny cairn perched on a large boulder, but the situation eventually became so fatiguing and desperate we had to get out of these skewed boulders. We scanned the rock field and headed on the most feasible line towards the nearest vegetation we could see, finally reaching the comfort of heather and whinberry. Recuperating and climbing the slope for just a few minutes, an excellent path appeared from below: in hindsight, I think the original path descended and swung left far more than expected to circumnavigate the boulder field and we somehow missed it.

A short while later we met one walker descending the path, the only other person we would see in this area, and soon reached the now deserted Llyn y Gadair corrie, a magnificent sight that erased the boulder troubles in an instant. The infamous Fox's scree route to the Cadair summit is clearly seen across the water, I believe the rocky rib to its left is now the usual option.

We would have liked more time to explore this superb scene, but the boulder field had delayed us a lot and we needed to start the descent towards Llyn Gafr. Like Llyn y Gadair, Llyn Gafr had seemed to be a natural magnet for campers but as it came into view, it became clear that both lake areas were totally deserted. It was an easy decision to pitch right by the lake, an excellent location indeed.

Relaxing and recovering by the water, we saw a pair of Canada Geese who started honking and a pair of mallards whose brood of ten ducklings suddenly appeared from the camouflage of the shoreline rocks.

The geese and sheep ensured we didn't oversleep, not that there was any hurry to leave this fantastic pitch in the low early light.

We broke camp and crossed to the eastern side of the outflow to continue the descent of the Fox's path, the Rhinogydd sharply defined in the distance and the outflow meandering down to the wet plains below.

Nearing the lane by the Gwernan Lake hotel, the main footpath drops directly to the minor road but we took a right fork in the path through a fine woodland that slants down to join the road farther east. We walked north-eastwards to the point where the road crosses the Nant y Ceunant and followed the riverside footpath that becomes an excellent grassy track down to the upper roads of Dolgellau.